Pizzelle: The Italian American Waffle Cookie

and why everyone needs a pizzelle iron!

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I know the taste of black licorice can be quite divisive. In theory you could leave out the anise extract and anise seed or replace it with vanilla or lemon extract, but the anisey aroma and flavor is really at the heart of this beloved Italian and Italian American classic. This cookie is ubiquitous in Italian American households in the Great Lakes area. I found a chocolate pizzelle version as well. I actually came across it in one of the only Italian American baking books that I currently own, called Dolci! American Baking with an Italian Accent by Renato Poliafito. Here in Youngstown, Ohio anise is the flavor of choice, and what you will find in most bakeries.

The first time I ever tried a homemade pizzelle was back in the fall of 2007. I was visiting Tom in Youngstown for Thanksgiving, and his incredible grandmother is a pizzelle queen! The recipe I’m sharing today is not hers but I will share her recipe one day. Promise! After the first bite, my immediate reaction was to say, I don’t like it. Weird way to get you interested in making some pizzelles, right? I just plain don’t like that sharp black licorice flavor. But as that flavor lingered, I kept going in for more bites. Then a pizzelle, and a couple after that too. After 4 or so pizzelles, I knew there was something special about this cookie. Even for a non-black licorice lover like myself, the anise flavor and aroma left you wanting, dare I say craving another bite.

It took me 17 years after eating my first pizzelle, to make my first one this past month. My partner Tom got me a pizzelle iron this Christmas! It’s maybe an old Vitantonio. It’s manual and all aluminum with a wonderful pattern (manufactured in Cleveland, OH).

It’s a perfect welcome gift to Youngstown as well! Everyone here makes pizzelles and no cookie table is complete without pizzelles— yes there is a whole culture of cookie tables in this part of the country. These cookies also make an appearance on every major holiday, especially Christmas and Easter, and I’m pretty convinced anyone will accept any excuse to enjoy these anisey pressed cookies with their stunning decorations.

To be honest, I was intimidated by this cookie. You need a whole separate tool to make them. And this is coming from someone who spent two plus years baking Panettone.

Two weeks ago, I finally conquered my fear and made some. Making them for my Italian American partner and mother in law was a little anxiety provoking as well since the two of them have about 100 years of eating pizzelles between them. I am happy to report that my first two batches of pizzelles were a hit! I like to think that even Tom’s grandma would be proud. I will make them for her, once I build up some confidence!

I made the mistake of making pizzelles on a super wet and humid day. That’s a recipe for disaster for a cookie that is supposed to have a crispy finish similar to a waffle cone. The ideal texture of a pizzelle does seem to change from person to person but traditionally these are meant to be crispy and quite thin. Some folks like them a little more bendy and thick, which you can achieve by cooking the cookies a little less and applying less pressure when pressing the iron or electric pizzelle maker shut.

The recipe I am sharing with you today, I found on YouTube. Thank you, Maria!

I made this recipe several times now with my own tiny adjustments. I think this is a great starter recipe for anyone who is pizzelle curious. The batter comes together in minutes and requires minimal prep, not even the step of melting butter, since this recipe uses oil.

The hardest part of the process is definitely the cooking especially if you are attempting to make these with a handheld old-school pizzelle iron. The process actually reminds me a lot of making crepes, standing over each one, waiting, and checking patiently to see if the iron is ready to turn, as you would check on a crepe to make sure it is ready to be flipped. When the pizzelles come off the iron they are pliable and can be molded into different shapes, and they become crisp as they cool. It is a wonderful transformation of form. And something waffle makers are very familiar with.

Making one pizzelle at a time is definitely not ideal for Christmas level production but it is perfect if you are looking for a more immersive and meditative approach. Tom has suggested it’s probably best to work like a book binder gilding and use multiple irons so we can rotate them out to maintain heat. An electric griddle usually makes two or three at a time, but there’s still downtime in between to allow the heat to rebuild. The key is to work at a pace that works for you.

As far as sourcing ingredients for this recipe, the only two hard to find ingredients are anise extract and whole anise seeds. I bought mine at one of many Italian grocers here in town but you can purchase yours online no problem. You can also leave out the anise seed if that’s too much.

The cookies are absolutely stunning, even the “ugly” ones are beautiful! Best of luck! And let me know if you have any memories, stories, or favorite pizzelle recipes in the comments.

Yield:

Makes between 21 and 25 cookies

Tools:

Pizzele Iron or Electric Pizzelle Maker

Mixing Bowl

Baking Spray

Tablespoon

Cooling Rack

Offset Spatula

Ingredient List:

• 150 grams or 3 eggs, room temperature

• 100 grams or 1/2 cup sugar

• 50 grams or 1/4 cup neutral oil such as peanut oil

• 1 to 2 teaspoons Anise extract (I do two)

• 1 to 2 teaspoons Anise seed (optional) (I do two)

• 180 grams or 1 1/4 cup all purpose flour (I use King Arthur All Purpose)

• 3 grams or 3/4 teaspoon baking powder

Method:

*I use an old school handheld stove-top pizzelle iron which I like to preheat while making the batter. I preheat between 6 and 7 on an electric stove for about 10 minutes or so.

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs until foamy, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the sugar and whisk until the mixture is a nice pale golden color, this should take around 5 minutes.

3. You can now add the oil, anise extract, and anise seed, whisk until everything is combined, about a minute.

4. Lastly, sift in the flour and baking soda into the bowl with wet ingredients, using a spatula mix the flour in with the wet ingredients until no streaks of flour remain.

5. Once the iron is hot, I usually hit it (both sides) with a spray or two of non-stick baking spray, if it smokes ever so slightly the iron is just right. Now place a tablespoon of batter right in the middle and close the iron. It is important to hold the iron shut pretty tight if you want a nice thin pizzelle. Cook on each side for 30 to 40 seconds. Repeat 20 to 25 more times! Good Luck!

Notes:

• If your first couple of pizzelles come out a little dark turn down the heat, take the iron off the heat, and let the iron cool down a bit before placing it back on the heat.

• Don’t be scared though! You are building muscle memory with each pizzelle!

Storing:

• Store in an airtight container with some wax paper. In theory these could last you months but I promise they won’t make it past one week.

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